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If you have questions about your install, please read all the instructions below and visit www.myeverlights.com/troubleshooting
EverLights were designed to embed into the gutters and flashing on existing homes. Many homes already have everything needed to install EverLights right on the house. Simply drill holes using our handy template, insert the light through the backside of the hole, and secure the light in place by screwing on the cap. If your home does not have gutters or drip edge flashing installed, it’s a simple addition. Custom moldings are available, but you can also find what you need at your local home improvement center.
EverLights run off a three conductor cable. The two outside wires are stranded 18 AWG power wires, and the middle wire is a stranded 22 AWG data wire. The positive wire is consistently labeled with the text “EverLights”.
The lights are directional and must be installed with the correct polarity. You can identify the “in” and “out” of each light by looking at the backside of the circuit board of any light.
The lights can be cut at any point without causing damage to any light in the string as long as the power is off. You can add a Y-splice or an unlit section to the lights at any point.
The EverLights Starter Kit comes with all the materials you need to get your lights going, but there are a few tools you will need:
- Drill – any brand or type of drill will do, but a cordless drill is best. Drill bits come in the starter kit.
- Wire stripper/crimper/cutter – This can either be a multi tool, or three separate tools.
- Screwdriver – A small flat head is needed to secure the connections in the terminal blocks that attach to the control box
- Lighter or mini torch – the most weatherproof connections (included) require heat shrinking
- Ladder – Unless you’re super tall or good at monkey-ing around
Control Box Setup:
The first step to installing your system is to link your control box to your home Wi-Fi network. You can download the complete instructions below, but a few things to note:
- The Wi-Fi network you choose must be a 2.4 GHz network.
- Pick a network that has a consistently strong signal wherever you are installing your control box.
- Make sure your mobile device is on the same network you assign to your control box anytime you want to control the lights.
- To hang the control box on the wall, place a piece of layout tape on the wall and drill two holes six inches apart with the included drill bits. Insert the drywall anchors and mount the control box.
- Terminal blocks – These are the black blocks that plug into the ports on the control box. Simply insert the stripped wire into the correct slot and secure the wire in place by tightening the screw.
- Terminating a run of lights - Just cut off any excess lights wherever you want to end your run of lights. To prevent the lights from shorting due to contact with a gutter, or connection via water or ice, it is best to coat the end of the wires. We recommend liquid electrical tape, but silicone or standard electrical tape will also do the trick. Since the biggest risk of exposed wires is connecting the ground and positive wires, it's a good idea to snip one of the power wires an inch or so shorter so there's a larger gap to bridge should the coating wear off.
- Heat shrink butt splices – The most weatherproof connection. Strip ¼” of insulation from the wire, twist the strands of wire to compact, and insert the stripped wire into one side of the connector. Use your crimp tool to squeeze the coupler tight around the wire. If your knuckles pop, you have squeezed hard enough. Use a lighter or mini torch to gently apply heat to the coupler, starting at the middle and moving outwards.
- Y-splits – When making a Y-split use a multiple wire step down connector heat shrink. Installation is the same as a regular butt splice heat shrink, except strip 3/8” of insulation off the two output wires and twist them together before inserting into the butt splice. Melting the heat shrink is the same, but make sure the glue provides a good seal between the two wires on the output side.
Direction of Lights (In/Out):
It is very important to pay attention to the direction of your lights. If you wire the lights backwards, you may cause damage to the lights or the control box. Each individual light is marked with the words "In" and "Out" on the backside of the shell. You can think of the control box sending the signal and power out to your lights. This means the first light that connects to your control box should connect on the "In" side. Each subsequent light connects in like manner, even when there's a Y-split or section of unlit wire. Always connect "Out" to "In". Never connect "Out" to "Out" or "In" to "In".
Inside each LED there are three pixels, a red, green, and blue pixel. The 16 million colors are achieved by mixing the brightness of these three pixels. White is achieved by full brightness on all three pixels. As such, white is the biggest power draw to the system.
We recommend boosting the power every 75 feet or so to keep the colors consistent. Many patterns or colors will be fine at longer distances, but if your lights are on all white at full brightness, you will start to notice the colors turning reddish around the 75 foot mark. You can boost your power at longer or shorter intervals, but 75 feet is a good rule of thumb.
There are ways to maximize the length you can go without boosting the power. You can read about these in our Tips and Tricks. However, in many cases there is no getting around boosting the power. In these situations, you have the following options to accomplish this:
- Use a power booster – EverLights power boosters are waterproof power supplies that can be installed in outdoor locations. Ideally, you will have an eave outlet close to where you need to boost your power, but any outlet will do. This is the ideal method for boosting power.
- Run parallel power from the control box – If there are no exterior outlets accessible, this is a good option. Connect a second cable to the terminal block of the control box (power wires only, the middle wire will not be used) and run it to the point you need the power. You can run this wire with the lights, or take another route.
- Run parallel power off a booster – The same idea as option 2, but run the second set of parallel power wires from a power booster instead of the control box. This essentially provides two power boosting locations from one power booster.
The following is not necessary for installation, but could save you a headache or two. It's worth a read.
Safety is very important. Please review these two documents to properly use your ladder and stay safe.