Drill, Insert, Twist
Our patented design makes EverLights the easiest to install permanent holiday lights on the market. Whether you’re an experienced contractor or an aspiring DIYer, let us walk you through the system and install procedure with the following guide. Boiling it down, install is as simple as:
If all else fails, follow these rules and you will be OK!
The 3 Must Follow Rules For A Proper Install
Never cut any wires with the lights powered. The lights are powered anytime they are plugged into a power source, whether the lights are on or not. Always install with the lights unplugged from all power sources.
Connect like to like wires. The wire labeled “EverLights” only connects to other wires labeled “EverLights”. Same deal for the other two wires.
Keep the direction of the lights constant. Every light has an input and output. They must always connect in to out. The back of every light is labeled and includes an arrow. Ensure all arrows are pointing in the same direction.
Small Flathead Screwdriver
Lighter or Mini Torch
Liquid Electrical Tape
Before You Begin -
It’s well worth the time to consider the following before getting the ladder out:
Layout: Where do you want the lights to go? Where will you need a power booster? Where are the external outlets on your house? Just a few questions you want to consider. Generally speaking you want to move consistently in one direction across the house. Read more about power requirements below read the Tips & Tricks before diving in.
Connect Your Control Box: Before you mount your control box and route the wiring, setup your control box and make sure it is responsive to commands where you intend to place it. The garage is the best place for the control box but your Wi-Fi signal may be more reliable on one side than the other. As much as possible do this testing with cars in the garage that are typically parked there. *Note: you must connect to a 2.4 GHz network for proper function.
With a plan in place it’s time to start punching some holes. Use the EverLights layout tape as a template and you’re ready to rip.
Tape on gutter
Drill hole, tape off
Insert light into dark flashing
Screw on cap
The 3 Rules
Adhere to the 3 rules of installing EverLights and you can't go wrong
Never Cut Live Wires
Connect Like to Like Wires
Keep Direction Constant
At the end of a run make sure to coat the end of the wire with liquid electrical tape or another outdoor coating. It’s also wise to cut the positive wire an inch or so shorter than the other wires so there’s a further distance to bridge before causing a short should the coating fail over time.
No Gutters or Flashing?
Grab some J-channel from your local home improvement store or contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org if you are interested in purchasing custom channel available in 60 colors.
EverLights run off a three conductor cable. The two outside wires are stranded 18 AWG power wires, and the middle wire is a stranded 22 AWG data wire. The positive wire is consistently labeled with the text “EverLights”. Match the positive “EverLights” wire to the +5v port on the control box.
The EverLights control box has two zone outputs. You can have each zone display the same or unique patterns at the same time or individually. The wire for each zone screws into the black terminal blocks. Follow rule #2 by inserting each wire into the corresponding port of the terminal block. Each pin is labeled on the bottom of the control box. The power supply simply inserts into the jack labeled POWER and there’s also a reset button should you ever need to turn on/off access point mode or reset your controller.
Strip ¼” of insulation from the wire, twist the strands of wire to compact, and insert the stripped wire into one side of the connector. Use your crimp tool to squeeze the coupler tight around the wire. If your knuckles pop, you have squeezed hard enough. Use a lighter or mini torch to gently apply heat to the coupler, starting at the middle and moving outwards. Same procedure for the clear Y-split connectors but strip 3/8” of insulation off the wires that go in the double side.
Inside each LED there are three pixels, a red, green, and blue pixel. The 16 million colors are achieved by mixing the brightness of these three pixels. White is achieved by full brightness on all three pixels. As such, white is the biggest power draw to the system.
We recommend boosting the power every 75 feet or so to keep the colors consistent. Many patterns or colors will be fine at longer distances, but if your lights are on all white at full brightness, you will start to notice the colors turning yellowish around the 75 foot mark. You can boost your power at longer or shorter intervals, but 75 feet is a good rule of thumb.
If you are tapping the fresh power into the middle of a run, cut the two power wires but leave the data wire intact. You can also add the fresh power at any connection point, in which case you would connect the data wires as usual. Next, join all three neutral wires using a multiple wire butt splice connector. If connecting the booster between two lights be sure to put the booster wire in the larger side of the connector with one of the wires from the lights. This will ensure proper spacing. Lastly, connect all three power wires using an additional multiple wire butt splice connector. Watch Video Here.